OUR PROCESSES – Maatie

OUR PROCESSES

We believe in the processes that surround us. If we were a theater, our setting would date back to ancient civilizations. When we did not know of our escape to technology or modern ways of doing things, our processes were naturally sustainable and Eco-friendly. We were merging with nature rather than harnessing it. We are an effort to merge with nature and connect with what lies within us.


our processes represent being conscious; in our way of being, in witnessing material transition through their natural form, in it gaining momentum through humans, but having its way of being and living energy.
The following are the processes we use to curate our pieces, we are constantly looking back at our processes and adding more of what we find existing in our world

CULTURAL PRINTS

BLOCK PRINTING

Since our world became mechanical and all about mass production and speed, printing has become a one machine work with various options and a huge environmental impact.
In between all of this, there are entire districts where everyone is involved in the process of printing. It's not something they just do, it’s a part of their identity, it is who they are. Every area has their way of printing and a story to tell. These skills are precious and passed on as heirlooms from one generation to another. That’s where we have come from, and where our roots lie.

It’s enchanting to see how the work of one community enables a work of a different community like a chain, leading to one end product. It reminds us how we as humans have an impact on some other thing, and our leaving endless footsteps wherever we go. It's beautiful to see how block-makers, dhobis (launderers), rangrez (dyers) and chippa (printers), who have such different skills, still come together to form something together. A lot of the motifs in block printing have age-old meanings associated with them. It's like wearing a piece of history and tradition. (photo credits: flickr.com, knocksense.com, open.ac.uk)

Even when we have moved to our technological ways, these villages are filled with sounds and views of the chippa printing, someone chiselling the wood, or the dhobi wriggling the cloth. These towns are filled with colour like their work, and by using these techniques we enable our consumers to express themselves naturally and eccentrically.

Block printing is an art form that celebrates authenticity, and human skill. Choosing block printing is like being able to pause time 200 years ago and still be able to access the type of awareness and human value we had then. Block printing still uses limited resources and chooses natural pigments for the colour.
The authenticity of this technique has not faded over time. Hand block printing requires expertise and a lot of skill to make uniform and clear block printing designs. The human effect in an art form is evident with its little imperfections which make each piece authentic and unique. This art is not only sustainable but is also enriching to the artisans involved in the process.

What we wear is what we say, by choosing block prints’ colourful and meaningful themes, motifs of Indian block print we choose to say that we believe in the combined communities working towards something, we believe in expressing through something which is witnessed by human eyes at every process. It pushes us to be more us, in an expressive way. We use block prints to bring more life to our pieces. (photo credits: ajrakhprints.co.in)

SHIBORI

The famous art of resist dyeing has shown its unique ancient patterns and unfolded a new realm of design in the current world. This art of binding and revealing represents more than the bundle's beauty. This process is the self-embodiment of rebellion and revolution. It shows how when we feel tied with our situations and environment, we find more of who we are and can stick with what we believe in and find our essence.

Shibori, derived from the Japanese word Shiboru which means “to squeeze” which I the essence of the process and essence of the realisation that we are meant to be bounded by our situations more and more to find our authentic genuine selves. Bounded with bands then dyed to form unique patterns show the effort it takes to be us and what it costs, but the result is always more of who we are. (photo credits: shutterstock.com)

ECO-PRINTING

Blending nature with art, Eco-Printing brings forward the hues hidden in nature to you. A technique where elements of earth like leaves, flowers and petals marks their authentic and unique design, colour and shape on the cloth.
Eco printing has also been found in a manuscript by Leonardo da Vinci with a picture of a sage leaf with instructions on how to perform botanical printing. This was used far before iron and lead were used in printing. In the modern world, this art form was revived by India Flint, this art is a constant realisation of the capacity of nature around us. To wrap us in its patterns and hues, to merge with us on an organic realm.

Each petal or leaf is placed by hand and then they tightly rolled and boiled in hot water releasing its plant dye and leaving patterns on the fabric. By bringing these printing techniques with you, we show the inconsistencies in the nature around us, how each leaf is different from another, reflects in every print of eco print done. Choosing eco printed products to give you the edge of feeling close to nature in a way deeper than us.

It's a connecting feeling to connect with the nature around us, to take those pigments and wear them as art. It's connecting with nature on a daily basis. it’s understanding that we have a connection to something beyond the machines and the industries we have built. It helps us pause and come back to who we really are, and where we really come from.

EARTH FRIENDLY

NATURAL DYE

The history of fabric has been designed in the hues and hints of nature. Before we digitally created light. The elements we see in nature are used for dying. Natural dyes bring the rawness of it. It's like remembering a time where we weren’t mechanical. Choosing naturally dyed clothes is like being in this mechanical world and still feeling your raw, untouched essence and relation to the earth.

Natural dye has an impression around them that fades, but we believe that they age. Any piece of clothing would fade, natural dyes do more than general, but after a few washes, the colour settles in. The way it changes over time feels like it's a part of the journey of the wearer. Natural dye might change with the surrounding it is in, the environment like how the earth around us is different in different weathers and environment we can see similar but slower responses with natural dyed clothing.

Natural dyes are formed by pigments found in nature, thus they have a subtle element to them, because there are no chemicals used to intensify the colour, the colour palette of natural dyes shows the rawness of our being. It connects us to our core and is far away from the bright, distracting lights of the mechanical world.

AYURVEDIC DYE

The process of Ayurvedic Dye, Ayurvastra emerges from a merging point between Ayurvedic Medicine and the process of dyeing. Ayur meaning life and everything pertaining to it, Ved meaning the science and Vastra meaning garment - the practice began a millennia ago when fabrics were dyed with herbs like Kurunthotti and Neelayamari, and spices such as turmeric and cloves for the healing benefits of the contact of the herb with the skin.

In general, medicinal ayurvedic clothing is natural and have various properties depending on the herbs used such as anti-bacterial, mood-lifting, blood purifying, skin refreshing and fresh properties. It works best in a rest state of being, which reminds us to pause and be in stillness, and is a step towards leading a slow, and aware lifestyle.

CERTIFIED FABRICS

To bring change in the current industry we have to challenge the unethical practices that have been taking place since the dawn of the fast fashion industry. it is the second largest polluter on the planet. The reason we can still buy a 300 rupee t-shirt has its impact on developing and underdeveloped countries. Someone is not being paid, and the environment and our nature are at cost. Everything we should stand for as a society, like saving nature, having ethical practices and having transparency through our supply chain, is not present in uncertified sources of fabrics. Using certified fabrics gives us a metric to know that a product is being made with all steps of the process kept in check and under strict guidelines.

We use various certified fabrics in our collections, GOTS certified organic cotton and GRS certified cotton. We also use EPFC certified natural plant fibre fabrics such as orange and soya. These certifications make sure that the process of making the fabric is as sustainable as possible. It regulates the use of chemicals, water, electricity, ethical labour standards, in the entire supply chain to make these fabrics. We manufacture all the pieces in-house in small batches, through a small team, and provide a fair working environment for them. Which is our commitment to providing an ethical and mindful fashion to the world. (photo credits: squareflower.co.uk, coyuchi.com)

GOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON

Organic cotton is made with organic cotton fibres i.e. cotton harvested without any toxic chemicals, and using less water. Organic cotton helps to maintain soil fertility and reducing the negative impact it creates on river beds and freshwater sources. It's our need to shift to organic cotton. The GOTS certification makes sure a fabric is made up of 90-95 % or organic cotton, and that ethical labour laws are practised in the factories making the fabric.

Further, it sustains our ecosystem in more way - preventing groundwater contamination, preserving biodiversity by avoiding pests & the use of toxins. It also aids in the fight against global warming and reducing nitrogen emissions in the fashion industry by 94%. It is a recognised global form of certification that allows the fabric to be as sustainable as possible in the current environment.

GRS CERTIFIED COTTON

The goal of the Global Recycled Standard is to bring in a recycling revolution by increasing the use of recycled material in the clothing industry. Making sure that 20% of the fibre used is made out of recycled materials, which in turn helps to move some fabric away from the landfill, and is a great way to consume fashion in a forward direction. By reusing it again and again, efficiently extending its loop of life.
Choosing recycled fabrics is a step to move forward with keeping our current position in mind and understanding that that is what is needed by us to sustain our environment. (photo credits: fairtrade.com)

EPIC CERTIFIED NATURAL FIBER

Polyester and Nylon clothing leads to small microplastic fibres everywhere, in the soil, and oceans, which corrupts our environment on a deeper level. Natural fibre fabrics are ,made out of cellulose found in nature. We use certified soya and orange fibre fabric which gives the same smooth feel, but without the microplastics. EPFC certification makes sure that these fibres are plant fibres and follow ethical practices in fabric production. We need more of these fabrics to be able to give the same variety of textures in sustainable fashion.

HAND WORK

In the time of machine-driven fast fashion, the art of handwork is a moving and beautiful force. The techniques used in hand work are authentic and full of emotions and expression. Handwork focuses on every stitch, stroke and style. IT enables artisans to witness a material transform into different forms. It is a process which replaces the machines and thus is slow and makes fashion more conscious and mindful.

BANJARA EMRIODERY

Considered one of the most colourful, the Banjara community practises beautiful Banjara/Lambani embroidery. Representing the dramatic and diverse culture of India, Banjara Embroidery is studded with colourful threads, mirrors, brass, gold, silver, ivory and more. Banjara Embroidery is not restricted by any rules, the stitches and shapes travel beyond the ordinary resulting in bold and beautiful designs. Lambani can be seen being centered around symmetry and geometrical figures which make them stand out more. The vibrant threads used in the embroidery represent the brighter side of things. Leading to a breathtaking melody of vibrant colours and heritage flowing through these pieces.

For further embellishing an article Lambani embroidery is often seen along with mirrors and shell, beads. The sunlight when reflects through the mirrors it reflects on the colourful threads, the light highlights the stories the embroidery has been stitched with. To us, the use of colour in the embroidery represents a platona of possibilities and how a traveller experiences life in a colourful and positive way. The mirrors also remind us to self reflect and question who we are.

The immortal art of Chikankari that presents itself in the intricate and detailed stitch work by Indian artisans has always uplifted the work of design. From the courts of Mughals and Nawabs of Lucknow the art of Chikankari has survived the waves of fashion and is still in it’s authentic process today. Chikenkari is known to stem from the persian nobles of the Mughal court.

>Chikankari is generally performed with a white thread on a whote fabric,, the embroidery is not just performed on the surface of the fabric, the stitches on the back of the fabric are also performed as a part of the embroidery. The fabric used for chikenkari is always thin, so the details behind the embroidery can be seen.

By choosing Chikankari fabric, we accept the shadow sides of our personalities, as Chikankari would not be the same without the shadow embroidery seen through the fabric on the back side. It adds to the beauty of the embroidery and gives us a perspective to appreciate and accept our shadow sides as much as our prominent side. It also tells us how there is more to what we see, that what we see at the surface is just a byproduct of the process involved.

Today chikankari is usually performed by women, and is an art form which is empowering women to earn a livelihood in India. The city of Lucknow still has some master craftsmen whose skill is unmatched. Its a prestige to have access so such intricate techniques even today.

HANDLOOM

Handloom is the catalyst of Indian cloth, in each weft and warp or taana baana it reflects immense perseverance and patience needed to uphold the technique. Weaving is one of the oldest textile forms in India with ancient origins in the Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro civilisations.

Handweaving experiences material transition in most of human awareness, in comparison to mill made cloth. The raw materials used for handweaving are generally naturally grown cotton (for eg. kala cotton) which is special to that area. Women are generally seen making threads out of this natural plucked cotton on a charkha. Further the yarn has to be dyed in the required colours and set on the loom in the position depending on the pattern.. After which the process of weaving is performed from dawn to dusk, where every warp and weft is placed to form a fabric. A loom is a fascinating tool, it is as big as a huge piece of furniture and has parts which move and cause the pattern to form. The life and soul of the fabric is kept alive on the looms from dawn to dusk.

Each step is meditative in its its process. Weaving shows us the determination of being consistent with an action and forming a new form of material. It shows how if we keep going we are gonna create something materially different. We would keep forming new things when we know or day to day more and more.
The flaws and imperfections within the design represent authenticity. The beauty of it’s living form is in it’s imperfections, that have the soul and story of the craftsmen and cloth weaved in it. The imperfections in the design are what makes the process so natural. You see small openings on the fabric, they are the pin marks, coming about because of the fabric being pinned to the loom. That little mess could in all likelihood be of the oil used to grease up the loom, a drop of which, may have accidentally gotten split over in a badly planned second and that additional small threads on that immaculate fabric, could be a strand of the loom texture which fell because of the spouting breezes that day, and got woven in the process as well.

Handloom is so raw, every step of it is made by hand, there is no machine, handloom shows us how noticable the process of changing from one thing to other can be. every step of it changing from just plucked cotton to weaving the final fabric is a slow, aware and sustainable method. . And every material transition is witnessed by us as humans. No machine can ever take away that from us, the authentic of something fully human made.

HAND CROCHET

TRANSFORMATIONAL

Markets are flooded with machine-made clothes and designs. The process of designing has been taken out of human hand and reduced to a machine’s routine, the designs are based on trends, materials are unethical and the human touch is missing.we as makers need to be more mindful of what we put out there. We need to learn to create more with less. We need to break down the basic structure of thought in fashion, re-create it, transform it and sustain it.
At Maatie, we want to take a step towards that transformation, an outfit that can be styled, pulled apart, restored and extended. An outfit fit for many occasions, needs and feelings, giving you more options in less. A developed and futuristic approach to design and fashion.

Clothes are how we express ourselves to the external world. If a part of our essence is this connection to nature we also have a part of us we cannot ignore. For us to be able to feel like ourselves in social norms, all of us dress in our ways to present to the world who we are and what we stand for.And none of us are this or that, we are all a composition of so many things. Maybe because the technological world has brought so many perspectives we have been able to see more of the world and ourselves.
That’s why transformational clothing becomes more important, so we feel like ourselves in the same garment even in different environments. It helps us get more value from one piece of clothing rather than buying bulk, transformational fashion as its core is the complete opposite of consumerism. We just need a few pieces we connect with, which transform in a way where we are able to express different aspects of our identity.
Another reason for choosing transformational fashion is functionality, we perform various activities throughout the day which for functional reasons requires different fits of clothing, we have pieces in our collection which give the consumer the flexibility to transform and flow with their clothes in a comfortable state.

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